How to Spend an Awesome Day in Marvellous Muscat, Oman
My latest trip to Oman has seen me sharing my passion for travel more directly with you. I hope this ‘almost live’ way of sharing my travels is inspiring you to get out and about more, both close at home and far afield.
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Luckily I’m in Oman at a time of year that sees wildlife thriving, turtles nesting, sand crabs dancing on the beach (see instagram for video), birds still cool enough to drop in at breakfast and steel crumbs, and tropical fish shimmering and swimming around me in the shallows.
However yesterday I managed to drag myself away from the beach and see some manmade history and culture in Muscat.
1 – The Grand Mosque
2 – The Opera House
3 – The National Museum
4 – Al Alam Palace
5 – Al Jalali Fort
(There’s so much more to Muscat, souqs, more museums, shops etc, but this makes for a nice day of culture and history.)
First stop, The Grand Mosque
Now, I’ve seen a few churches and temples in my time, this similarly respected place of worship is most definitely up there with the best of them.
The towers dominate the area, four at approx 40 ft high, one at 70ft, significant representing the 5 pillars of islam.
I’ll admit it’s my first mosque visit, and WOW, what I’ve been missing.
I’m so glad Oman allow tourists the chance to walk around in such peaceful, contemplative spaces and see the spectacular surroundings. Truly WOW!
Apologies ahead of time if I get any terminology incorrect, I was walking round with someone whose English wasn’t strong, although it’s much better than my Arabic, so some things may have been lost in translation.
The Mosque Gardens
These beautifully sculpted and maintained gardens were hot as mid day beckoned. The seats built into the marble and sandstone walls were protected a little by the surrounding foliage and trees. Peaceful spots for contemplation or conversation.
The white building and pavements reflected the high sun burning back at my eyes, my camera (yes pictures are allowed) settings were the highest ever, so so bright.
Awesome, and truly beautiful architecture with influences from Iran and no doubt other historic and iconic designs.
The Women’s Prayer Room
A beautiful high ceilinged room with stained glass windows, chandeliers and a cool peace that encourages contemplation and dedication. The one thing that differs so obviously from other religious buildings is the lack of furniture.
In Greece I saw small chapels with humble wooden chairs, in Rome huge intricate carved seats and pews, here, a room with carpeted floor.
The whole place instills reverence, but instead of iconography the impressive architecture and carpet focus the visitor’s attention on the purpose of the building.
The Mosque / Prayer Room
As you place your shoes to one side, and ensure (ladies) you have covered your head, you step from the blaring white heat into the cool, breath-taking interior.
Similar design but much larger than the women’s prayer room, additions including huge ornate tiled alcoves and features.
The carpet, which understandably is protected around the main walkway, fills the huge expanse of floor. Neatly shaped around pillars, although I noticed it had ‘crept’ in areas, as carpets do. I’d love to know how on earth they would manage to move it just one inch, it’s immense.
The carpet, hand made in Iran, took four years to make has over 1 billion, 700 million knots! It was transported in 7 pieces and laid together in situ. I think it’s the biggest carpet in the world.
WOW!
It was so soft, I felt obliged to touch it gently on each colour block as my own small thanks to the skilled fingers of the distant carpet weavers who put it together with such care.
If you visit look for the ‘signature’ in the weave in one corner, showing the place and date of manufacture. I wonder how many hundreds of visitors over the decades and centuries to come will cast their eyes on that small square.
Above our heads hung the second biggest chandelier in the world.
8 tonnes of glass. Spectacular. The biggest is in Abu Dhabi, but I was assured it’s not as beautiful or well designed, understandably local pride is justified.
It was slightly nerve wracking standing beneath it, the weight apparent from its sheer brilliance and shimmering size.
Around the edges of the building are small alcoves which contain the Quran, free for worshippers to read. They’re replaced every five years being made specifically for the Grand Mosque alone.
I was truly blessed to have my guide read / chant an extract for me. One of those special moments, witnessing someone with true faith happy to share a moment of dedication with me, a stranger on their travels.
After time taking in the surroundings, being told about the secret Sultan’s door hidden in the stunning gold and mosaic tiles, and admiring all the different influences in design and features I sat for a few minutes in a discussion room.
It was occupied by various locals and tourists discussing their faith, beliefs and views whilst sharing a coffee, dates and cool water. I’m so glad my new friend took us to share that moment with others open to conversation.
The taxi was waiting in the shade, thankfully, so next stop…
The Opera House
Another beautiful and iconic building.
It was the first opera house / theatre to translate productions into Arabic, each seat having their own portal to plug into. Our helpful and informative guide (I think it’s required to be accompanied) advised us that each performance is transmitted in 3 languages, Arabic, English and the ‘home’ language of the production. What a great way to make theatre, opera and art accessible to all.
Everything in the theatre is either record breaking or just plain beautiful, well worth the half an hour tour. Modern architecture in traditional style, housing a theatre based around the traditional, boxes and balconies but encompassing and embracing new technologies, presumably at high expense.
I can imagine it’d make a great fancy evening out, diamonds and silks no doubt dominating the dress code.
A slightly warmer taxi ride later and arrival at…
The National Museum
Now you know me, I love a good museum, and there are various ones in Muscat that could have grabbed me, but the National was a great place to start.
It’s not huge, but well designed, and as the reviews say it goes for quality not quantity. It’s got some key pieces and is really well signed, with a huge amount of information about the history and culture. Very good descriptions and displays the majority of which are in English and Arabic, so easily accessible for most visitors.
Sadly the lovely little modern cafe didn’t serve much, but a tea and a bag of crisps did the job of a much needed rest and energy boost.
It was very quiet, allowing time to really learn about the exhibits, however I can imagine it being a bit busy if you time your visit when a school or coach trip arrives.
Tea and crisps and water taken on…let’s see the…
Al Alam Palace
This isn’t open to the public, but you can get quite close to it for photographs.
It’s a strange design, to me reminiscent of the government buildings in Vietnam. A strong grounded almost 1970s look to it. Which as I discovered later isn’t too surprising as it was built in the 1970s!
It’s multi coloured facade is eye catching and it’s location makes it feel safe and solid, cliffs and ancient cannons and fortress protecting it from the harsh seas and other invaders. Despite it’s modern appearance, it felt like an ancient respected building secure for the royal occupants.
The palace sits below the old fort.
Al Jalali Fort
A towering old school fort sat atop huge rocks and cliffs, solid square buildings running along and around the mountainous terrain.
I imagined archers sat at the tiny windows, it has a really solid historic feel to it.
It’s worth reading up on the history of Oman and Muscat specifically as this fort protected one of the important trade ports of ancient times.
In Oman bagpipers are part of the musical heritage, and it did bring to mind Edinburgh castle atop a huge rock with a lone piper. Very different architecture but the same historic reassuring feel to it. I didn’t go into the fort but I understand you can do if you have time.
I now needed water, air con and a comfy drive back to the hotel. The beach was calling.
On the way back a quick photo stop in Qantab, gave me a chance to chill out again after the hustle and bustle.
Oman
Although unlike other Middle Eastern cities, Oman feels quite chilled, not so much manic traffic, although I still wouldn’t recommend driving there, allow a local to take the wheel and sit back and enjoy the views.
I’m sure I’ll return to Muscat as I’ve hardly scraped the surface of a lovely historic proud and friendly city. No wonder the Queen and Princess Margaret had this high on their vacation lists.
If you visit I’d love to hear your views on the places I visited, along with those I haven’t got to, yet.
I’ve started reviewing all the books I read on my You Tube channel. I read three books on this trip, so if you too like a good holiday read check them out here.
You may also like:
https://www.christieadamswriter.com/oman-continued-another-massive-tick-on-my-bucket-list/
https://www.christieadamswriter.com/step-out-of-your-comfort-zone-go-backpacking/
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